'Relaxing' in Rajasthan

Arriving in New Delhi, we were filled with a mix of eager anticipation and nervousness. Meeting up with our good friends and travel buddies, Victoria and Andrew, was a moment we really looked forward to, but we couldn’t shake off the apprehension of what was in store in one of the most populous country in the world. India, and especially its capital, New Delhi, is known for its chaotic vibrancy—a place that can overwhelm even the most seasoned travelers. Recognizing that India is not for the faint of heart, we opted for the comfort and structure of a small group tour with G Adventures. This gave us the assistance we needed to navigate this challenging destination without the constant stress of planning every step.

Our first impression of New Delhi was dominated by the dense smog that hung in the air.

New Delhi, India's second-largest city, is one of the most densely populated cities in the world, with an urban population around 33 million people (more than the entire population of Nepal in 1 city). It also holds the unfortunate title of having some of the most polluted air on Earth. The air quality index here often reaches hazardous levels, a stark reality that hits you the moment you step outside. We successfully navigated the airport ATM, buying a SIM card and boarding the metro to the city, which we were slightly nervous about, especially given given Jelley's dodgy stomach. We were pleasantly surprised by the public metro system. Affordable, clean, and efficient: 10/10!

We arrived in the afternoon at our hotel in Karol Bagh, a bustling suburb that gave us an immediate taste of the city's bustle. After settling in and catching up with our good friends Victoria and Andrew, who Luke hadn't seen in 18 months, we decided to explore the neighbourhood together. Stepping outside was an immediate assault on the senses. The noise was the first thing to hit us - a constant symphony of honking horns, shouting vendors, and the hum of conversations in Hindi and English (or maybe even one of the other 22 official languages and 6,000 dialects spoken in India!). The air was thick with the aromas of street food and motorbike exhaust. The streets were crowded with a onslaught of people: locals hurrying about their day and rickshaw drivers weaving skillfully through the hoards of people that lined the streets. This first encounter with New Delhi's chaos was both exhilarating and overwhelming (mostly overwhelming). The city pulsed with an energy that was unlike anything we had experienced before. A vivid reminder that we were far from home and setting off on a very different kind of adventure compared to the solitude of the Himalayas.

Later that night, we met up with our G Adventures tour group, marking the official start of our journey through India. Our host, Manu, was a friendly, extremely tall, yet softly spoken Indian gentleman. With over ten years of experience leading tours, he was thrilled to finally see tourists again as the lull caused by the COVID-19 pandemic was beginning to subside. During the introductions, we met our group which consisted of about 15 people from all over the world—Australians, Americans, and Europeans travellers. It was an eclectic mix.

Manu gave us a rundown of what to expect over the next 14 days as we travelled through the state of Rajasthan. Located in the northwestern part of India, Rajasthan is renowned for its rich history, vibrant culture, and stunning architecture. Rajasthan’s name literally means "The Land of Kings" and is famous for its majestic palaces, grand forts, and intricate temples. Cities like Jaipur (known as the Pink City), Jodhpur (the Blue City), and Udaipur, (the City of Lakes), are just a few highlights that we were looking forward to seeing.

The next day, we set off in our dedicated purple bus, which would be our trusty transportation for the next 14 days. As if it wasn't obvious enough we were a group of tourists! Our first stops were some iconic sights around New Delhi, starting with a visit to a Gurdwara Bangla Sahib - a sacred water temple where the Indian Sikhs worship.

Sikhism, founded in the 15th century in Punjab, India, is a religion emphasizing equality, service, and devotion. It promotes truthful living, social justice, and remembrance of God at all times. What sets Sikhs apart and makes them easily identifiable is their unique attire, which includes the Dastaar (turban) and Kachhera (undergarment). Additionally, they carry a Kirpan (ceremonial short sword) and wear a Kara (iron bracelet).

One of the most interesting highlights of our visit to the temple was witnessing the community kitchen, known as a "langar," where volunteers prepare and serve free meals to up to 30,000 people per day (and up to 50,000 on Sundays). The sheer volume of food they cooked daily was astonishing, and the sense of community and selfless service was truly inspiring. The efforts are funded by donations from all over the world.

Next, we visited the India Gate, a lovely spacious park with a monumental arch that stands as a memorial to the Indian soldiers who lost their lives during World War I and the Third Anglo-Afghan War. Built in 1931, this impressive structure is a symbol of national pride and a humble reminder of the sacrifices made for the Indian nation.

After exploring New Delhi, we hit the road headed for our first small town called Mandawa. Today was a special day - it was Luke's birthday! And where else would he rather be spending his birthday than in the middle of nowhere India? Victoria and Jelley surprised him with a big Birthday Button, adding a festive touch to our journey. On the way to Mandawa, we stopped for a curry lunch, the first of many delicious curries we would enjoy on this trip. Andrew, even started his very own "Curry Tracker" on his phone, experimenting with different authentic curries and rating them along the way. Having Manu with us was a great advantage, as he guided us through the diverse menu of curries. His recommendations gave us the courage to venture out and try new dishes that we might have otherwise be too afraid to try. Of course, Manu also made sure to accommodate Jelley and Victoria’s preference for milder spices.

As we continued on our journey, Manu gave us a great oral history of India, its culture, and the places we were headed. We were extremely lucky with traffic on our first day and the journey was excellent compared to our bus trips in Nepal, with the roads were sealed and smooth most of the way. The only thing that stood in our way was the hoards of cows that crossed the roads everywhere. Cows are seen as a holy and sacred animal in India/Hindu culture and therefore are treated as highly valued creatures of God that must not be harmed. The bus drivers always made sure to take extra special care when a cow was crossing the road as Manu told us "if you kill a cow, you'd better run quickly..". We visited a couple of McDonald's on the trip and never found any beef products.

We arrived in Mandawa, a charming town known for its historical significance and stunning architecture. Mandawa is often referred to as an "open-air art gallery" because of its beautifully painted ‘havelis’, or traditional mansions, which were intricate buildings with beautifully hand-drawn artwork depicting the cultural heritage of the region. Our hotel in Mandawa was one of these restored havelis, a gorgeous relic that was a super cool stay. With its intricate carvings, ornate balconies, and grand courtyards, the hotel provided a unique historical charm.

Once we had settled in, we headed out on a short walking tour to discover the town. Mandawa, although small in size, served as a charming little rest stop to break up the lengthy bus ride. During our visit, we took the opportunity to admire some of the old havelis, which are mostly inhabited by owners who primarily live in major cities and only visit a few days per year. Unfortunately some had also fallen into disrepair, abandoned by their owners. These structures are situated along the ancient Silk Road trading route and used to serve as a high traffic commercial epicenter for merchants between China and the Middle East. One haveli was decorated with 3kg of gold painted on its walls!

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to the hotel for a special rooftop dinner. Watching the sun set over the town, we enjoyed a delicious meal under the open sky, the perfect setting to end our first full day of exploration. In a delightful surprise, Manu had arranged for a chocolate cake to celebrate Luke's birthday! It was an impressive stunt, considering how remote we were. This thoughtful gesture added a sweet touch to an nice evening. Unfortunately Jelley was still recovering, and had to excuse herself before eating any of the yummy chocolate cake.

After waking to the sound of morning prayer from the local mosques (reminded us of Turkey!), we hopped back into our purple people mover ready for our next destination. It was a welcome relief to not have to think about how to travel between different destinations. It was a little bit of a struggle to adapt to this new travel style, being so used to organising everything ourselves. However, it quickly became incredibly relaxing to just show up and be told what was planned for the day, a welcome escape from our usual travel routines.

Our bus transported us safely to the town of Jodhpur, famously known as the "Blue City" due to the blue-painted houses in its old town area. There are many theories about why the town is host to so many blue buildings, the top 3 being the locally sourced indigo colouring found int he area, the dedication to the lord Shiva, and the colour blue acting as a mosquito and heat repellent. It was cool to see the magnificent "Mehrangarh" Fort up atop the mountain, one of the largest forts in India, a site we would explore in closer detail the next day.

Manu left us to wander around Jodhpur for a few hours, and we quickly remembered why we had booked the tour. The streets were absolute chaos! We did find moments of fun, venturing off to take some silly photos with Victoria and Andrew, but it was a relief to reunite again with our group and Manu. The experience reaffirmed our appreciation for the structured guidance of the tour, allowing us to enjoy the adventure without being completely swept away by the city's energy.

Our next stop was a visit to a local spice vendor, where we delved into the world of Indian spices. We learned about the various types of spices produced in India and what makes their cuisine so flavorful. The vendor introduced us to exotic spices like cardamom, turmeric, and cumin, explaining how each one contributes to the rich flavour of Indian cooking. It was fascinating to understand the alchemy behind the tastes that had been tantalizing our taste buds.

After our spicy education, we headed back to our hotel for a quiet evening. The day's sensory overload had left us exhausted. The constant honking of rickshaws, the shouting of market vendors, and the sheer number of people bustling about was just too much. The relentless activity made it difficult to find a moment of peace, and by evening, we were all ready for a break from the stimulation.

The next day, we ascended to the majestic Mehrangarh Fort, a crowning jewel of Jodhpur. Manu had arranged for a local tour guide who took us around, sharing the rich history and architectural marvels of the fort. Built in 1459 by Rao Jodha, Mehrangarh Fort is one of the largest and most well-preserved forts in India. The fort's massive walls rise up to 37 meters (120ft) high providing a defense against former invaders. Interestingly, this fort was until recently privately rather than publicly owned, which contributes to the attention to the upkeep. The family still own 10% of the fort for private us, which amounts to around 84 rooms, if that gives you an idea of the scale of this huge complex.

As we toured the fort, we were mesmerised by the intricately carved panels and expansive courtyards. Highlights included the Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Room), with its dazzling mirror work, and the Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), a lavish hall that once served as a private chamber for the Maharajas (Pinces). The fort also houses a museum displaying an impressive collection of royal artifacts, including armor, and paintings, offering a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of Jodhpur's former rulers.

After the tour, Jelley was feeling a bit fatigued and went back to the hotel to rest. Meanwhile, Luke, Victoria, and Andrew set off on a peaceful walk around the Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park. This ecological restoration project provided a serene escape from the chaos of the city. The park's rocky landscape and native flora offered a rare moment of tranquillity, which we all enjoyed.

During our walk, we stumbled upon a small drum circle. It was captivating to witness this spontaneous gathering, a slice of authentic spirituality and religious tradition that India is renowned for. The rhythmic drumming and chanting created a meditative atmosphere, allowing us to connect with the deeper cultural essence of the region.

Back on the trusty purple people mover, we continued our journey through Rajasthan the next day. Our first stop was for a lovely lunch at a beautiful lodge in the middle of nowhere, situated next to an old hunting reserve tipped to be the country's next new national park. As we dined, we were delighted to spot some cute monkeys playing in the trees nearby, adding a touch of wildlife charm to our meal.

After our lunch break, we made a pit stop in Ranakpur to visit the renowned Jain Temple, an architectural masterpiece. Constructed in the 15th century, the Jain temple is made entirely of white marble and features an astonishing 1,444 intricately carved pillars, each one unique. The temple's ceilings and walls were all detailed sculptures, depicting scenes from Jain mythology and cosmology. We’ve seen a lot of temples, but this one was something else! One of the most remarkable aspects of the temple is its restoration and preservation efforts, after it was abandoned for centuries to the powers of the jungle, and only restored in the 20th century.

That night, we arrived in another town ending in "pur"—Udaipur. The suffix "pur" in these town names signifies "city" or "settlement" in Sanskrit, a common naming convention in northern India. Never a dull moment on travel tours though! We dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to a local art studio. Here, artists practiced an ancient style of miniature painting, renowned for its intricate details. To demonstrate their technique, they drew tiny, detailed paintings on our fingernails—an impressive display of their skill.

We took an evening stroll around Udaipur, often called the "City of Lakes." The scenery was stunning, with Lake Pichola at its heart, surrounded by palaces and temples, all reflecting in the serene waters.

That evening, we headed to our hotel's rooftop for dinner. Jelley decided to venture out of her Indian curry comfort zone and ordered a dish she couldn't pronounce. Despite her only requests being no onions and no cheese, the curry that arrived was nothing but onions and cheese. The mix-up led to a lot of laughs and some quick menu swapping, making for a memorable dinner.

The next day was a free day, so we all did our own things separately. It was actually Victoria and Andrew's wedding anniversary, so we gave them some alone time to celebrate. The day itself was pretty relaxed, with just a few short walks around the lake before heading out on a serene sunset boat cruise on Lake Pichola. The peaceful waters and the picturesque surroundings made for a perfect, tranquil evening.

The following day, we woke up at the crack of dawn for a bike tour around a neighbouring lake outside of Udaipur. Exploring the remote villages by bicycle was super fun. We cycled past lush fields, quaint homes, and friendly locals who greeted us with warm smiles, giving us a glimpse into rural life in Rajasthan.

That evening, we visited the Udaipur City Palace, a magnificent architectural marvel situated on the banks of Lake Pichola. The complex comprises several palaces, courtyards, and gardens, each showcasing intricate marble work, mirror work, and beautiful murals.

Highlights of the City Palace include the Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors), the Moti Mahal (Palace of Pearls), and the Mor Chowk (Peacock Courtyard), with vibrant peacock mosaics. Every corner was picturesque, with its elegant arches, ornate balconies, and breathtaking views of the lake and city below.

After exploring the palace, we headed up to a scenic viewpoint for sunset with some other tour group members. One of our fellow travellers, Anita, was from Frankfurt, Germany, which was where Jelley was headed after our India tour to work on the European Football Championship (the EUROs). A perfect coincidence, and immediate friendship! It was great to bond with her and learn more about what to expect in Frankfurt.

That evening, we enjoyed a double date night with Victoria and Andrew at a gorgeous lakeside restaurant in Udaipur. Although it was a bit more touristy than some of the more authentic places we had dined at, the food was exceptional. The curries were flavorful. One of the highlights of our time in India has been the food, particularly the variety and richness of the curries. We had been steadfast in being vegetarian (or "yakatarian") diet since starting in Nepal, and we've truly appreciated the diverse and delicious vegetarian options available in Indian cuisine. From creamy paneer tikka masala to spicy chana masala, the array of flavors and dishes we could enjoy without meat was impressive and satisfying.

Back in the Purple-Mobile, our next stop was Pushkar, a small but significant town right in the middle of Rajasthan. Pushkar is one of the oldest and most holy cities in India and is known for its sacred Pushkar Lake, which is surrounded by numerous ghats (steps leading to the water) where pilgrims perform holy rituals. The town is also famous for the annual Pushkar Camel Fair, one of the largest camel fairs in the world.

Upon arrival, we headed towards Pushkar Lake, one of the 4 pilgrimage sights every Hindu must visit in their life or afterlife. On the way, we fed some cows some grass which was hilarious. Some local ladies were selling bundles for $1 and we each grabbed one and fed the mother goddesses their grassy treats. The local ladies ran a cracking trade, "Idea: grow my own grass and then get tourists to pay me to feed my cows". Genius.

Once at the lake, we had a little walk around and, before the sun set, Jelley and Andrew took part in a holy ritual by the lake with a guru. The ritual involved tossing their worries into the lake and receiving a red dot on their foreheads. In Indian culture, the red dot, or bindi, is a symbol of spiritual awakening, protection, and the third eye of wisdom. It is often worn to invoke the blessings of the gods and to ward off bad luck.

The next morning, Jelley, Victoria, and Andrew were early birds and woke up before dawn for a sunrise hike on a nearby hill. Luke had a lazy sleep-in morning. The hike offered sweeping views of Pushkar, plenty of monkeys, and was an invigorating start to another day in India! Once Luke was done being a lazy lizard, he joined everyone for a not-quite-so-traditional pancake breakfast in town.

That evening, we had something a bit different planned—a magic show in the desert! While some chose to ride camels out to the desert, the rest of us opted to take a jeep. We arrived at the outpost and sat in a semi-circle to watch the magic show. The performance was surprisingly captivating and fun. A unique experience amidst the desert dunes.

After the show, we had a bit of fun dressing up in traditional Indian attire for a photo shoot. The men put on full white gowns, known as "kurtas", paired with traditional head turbans. The women wore vibrant Sari's (pronounced "Sah-rees"), a hallmark of Indian fashion. It was a fun experience, and we all looked like we had stepped out of a historical Indian painting.

On the way back to our hotel, our jeep got stuck in the sand. Despite our efforts to push it out, it was no use. We couldn't help but chuckle in the pun of the situation. Here we were doing a "push-car" in "Pushkar." Fortunately, some Mumbai policemen were doing training in the area and kindly lent a hand, along with a tow, to pull us out. It was a memorable way to end the day, filled with laughter and relief as we made our way back to the comfort of our hotel, in bed before the big jolly man came to visit overnight.

It was Christmas Day! We were relieved to leave the chaos of Pushkar, and embarked on a bus journey to a small village called Tordi Gah. Nestled in the remote countryside, Tordi offered a welcome calm from the bustling towns we had been exploring.

After dropping off our bags, a handful of us opted for a jeep tour of the surrounding areas. Led by Manu, our knowledgeable guide, we set off to explore the picturesque countryside. Our first stop was a small field where various crops like pumpkins and mustard seeds were cultivated. We also experienced a stepwell, careful not to fall in. It may have seemed random, but it turned out to be a delightful and educational excursion, giving us insight into the local agricultural practices.

Next, we visited the Tordi Sagar Dam, an essential water reservoir built to provide irrigation and drinking water to the surrounding villages. It was relaxing spot to sip tea and watch the boys throw stones on the water. As the day drew to a close, we made our way to a little sand dune to watch the sunset—a serene and tranquil moment amidst the vast expanse of the countryside.

That night, we decided to add a festive twist to our Christmas celebrations with a "Secret Santa" activity (known as "White Elephant" in the USA). We tasked all our fellow travellers to find the funniest or most impressive items worth around $2 while at the crazy Pushkar markets to put in a sack. Then, one by one, we took turns either selecting a new item from the sack or stealing someone else's quirky Indian souvenir found along the trip. It was a fun and silly affair, a unique way to celebrate Christmas Day in India, filled with laughter, camaraderie, and the spirit of giving. Apparently India one of the best places to spend Christmas if you don’t like Christmas as it isn’t widely celebrated. Which was a shame for Jelley as she actually loves Christmas!

The next day, our journey led us to the vibrant city of Jaipur, known as the 'Pink City' due to the distinctive pink hue of its buildings. Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan with 5 million inhabitants, is steeped in history and culture, boasting magnificent palaces, forts, and temples that reflect its royal heritage.

Our first stop during our visit to Jaipur was the Amber Palace, a majestic fortress perched on a hilltop overlooking the city. Built in the 16th century by Raja Man Singh I, the palace served as the residence of the Rajput Maharajas of Jaipur. It is renowned for its stunning architecture, intricate marble work, and, yet another elaborate mirror room, which was by far the most impressive. There was an Uzbek influence on the design of this unique palace was evident, given the placement on the Silk Road and the Raj relationship with Uzbekistan at the time. Unfortunately for us, today was a public holiday in India so the fort was noticeably more crowded than our other visits. We made the most of it, and our local guide showed us sneaky tunnels to avoid the crowds and see behind the scenes.

However, our exploration of Jaipur also prompted reflection on the darker chapters of its history, particularly the impact of colonialism and the presence of the East India Company. The East India Company, established in the 17th century, was a British trading company that gradually expanded its influence across India, eventually assuming administrative / quasi-government control over vast territories of India. The company's presence in India led to significant economic exploitation, political manipulation, and cultural imperialism. The exploitative policies and practices of the company resulted in widespread impoverishment, socio-economic disparities, and political instability in the region.

The fallout of the East India Company's rule was keenly felt in Rajasthan and throughout India, as indigenous industries were decimated, traditional systems of governance were disrupted, and local cultures were marginalized. The legacy of colonialism continues to shape the socio-political landscape of India to this day, underscoring the complex and multifaceted history of the region.

After our explorations of the Amber Palace, we had some free time to wander and explore Jaipur. Eager to soak in the vibrant atmosphere of Jaipur, we set off for an evening stroll through its bustling streets. However, the reality of navigating the crowded markets and enduring the onslaught of noise proved overwhelming. Jaipur's bustling streets, combined with the relentless string of people, became too much to handle, and we found ourselves seeking refuge from the sensory overload at a cozy cafe tucked away from the chaos of the city.

The next morning, Luke, Wakey & Anita, feeling adventurous, embarked on a sightseeing tour of Jaipur by bicycle. Uncertain of what to expect, especially after the exhausting evening we had, they were told that the best time to experience a city in India is at dawn, when the streets are quieter and you can witness the city come alive.

Half asleep, the early risers met their bike guides in the early morning darkness at a local shop. Despite their grogginess, the guides showed boundless energy and enthusiasm, which was both exciting and a bit overwhelming at first. Soon, they were handed their bikes - sleek and well-maintained - and set off on their journey.

As the sun rose, the city began to awaken. With three bike guides leading the way, we meandered through the vacant streets of Jaipur, navigating through its labyrinthine alleyways. Despite the absence of cars on the road, the guides ensured our safety, with one leading, one trailing, and another on each side to prevent any accidents. As we cycled through the streets, the guides greeted familiar faces with enthusiastic calls of "Radayyy Radayyy," a cheerful exchange that soon became infectious, with Luke and Wakey joining in the humorous camaraderie.

Our journey took us to various sites, including a local chai tea stall, a museum, a quick stop at a food stall for breakfast and coffee, and a bustling wholesale market where the sights and sounds overwhelmed our senses. The abundance of fresh produce and the unbelievably low prices, like a kilogram of garlic cloves for just USD$1, left us in awe.

The highlight of our adventure was a session of laughing yoga in an open field, where various bicycle tour groups converged. Laughing yoga, a form of yoga that combines laughter exercises with yogic breathing, left us in fits of laughter and uplifted our spirits.

Afterward, we visited a nearby temple where lively music filled the air, and locals engaged in spirited chants and howls. As the only westerners present, it felt like a truly unique and immersive experience, witnessing a facet of Indian culture that was foreign yet captivating. As the morning drew to a close, Luke and Wakey were filled with gratitude for the memorable experience.

The following day in Jaipur was a laid-back one, as we visited a local textile factory, where we gained insight into the process of textile and print production.

Jelley, Vic & Andrew decided to check out one of the many Gates of the city, some known for their history and others seemingly just known for their Instagram status and backdrop for engagement and wedding shoots. We ended up at one of the latter, Patrika Gate, and were treated to a real experience of being shouted at by photographers as we tried to enjoy the colourful art but actually just got yelled at in between being swarmed by children.

Afterwards, we sought refuge from the midday bustle at a rooftop bar, where we savoured drinks and soaked in panoramic views of Jaipur's bustling streets below.

During our time in Jaipur, we couldn't help but notice the sight of countless kites dotting the sky, flown by children from rooftops across the city. This cultural phenomenon is deeply ingrained in Indian tradition and is particularly prominent during the annual kite festival, where children compete in kite-fighting battles, attempting to cut the strings of their opponents' kites. It was neat to observe children skillfully maneuvering their kites alongside their friends. We couldn't help but feel a sense of nostalgia for a time predating the era of smartphones.

As our G Adventures tour drew to a close, there was one iconic landmark left to visit—the Taj Mahal! Located approximately 230 kms (140 mi) away from New Delhi, most tourists opt to take the train to the Taj Mahal from there. Manu had warned us about the intensity of the crowds at the Taj Mahal and even rehearsed how entering the queues at the entrance would work. However, when we arrived, we encountered a stroke of luck as the trains were delayed from New Delhi, resulting in fewer crowds and queues when we arrived. Unfortunately, a low-lying fog / haze lingered over the monument during our visit, obscuring some of The Taj Mahal’s grandeur, but we weren't too disheartened, as we were told this was common and added a mystical allure to the Taj.

Constructed over a span of around 22 years (from 1632 - 1653) the Taj Mahal stands as a timeless symbol of “eternal love”. Commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in loving memory of his cherished wife, Mumtaz Mahal, this UNESCO World Heritage Site remains an architectural marvel. Characterised by its intricate marble work, impressive carvings, and surrounding gardens, it continues to captivate millions of visitors annually. The Arabic inscriptions on the exterior of the Taj Mahal reflect the cultural and historical context of the Mughal period, where Arabic was widely used for administration and held religious significance. This choice also reflects the Mughal Empire's ties to Persian and Islamic culture. We relished our time at the Taj Mahal and thought it was a fitting conclusion to our tour.

During our visit, we got the opportunity to explore the interior of the Taj, which houses the coffins or “cenotaphs” of Emperor Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal. The interior was decorated with intricate marble carvings and geometric designs. Unfortunately, photography was not permitted inside and they kind of ushered people through quickly so we weren’t really able to spend too much time, but it was pretty cool.

We made our way back to where the journey had started, New Delhi, and farewelled our tour group. We decided to stick around a few more days in New Delhi with Victoria and Andrew as there were a few more sites that we still wanted to see. Once cool stop we made was to see the Ghandi Museum. We learned a lot about Ghandi who is a prominent figure in Indian history. So much so that he is literally on the face of every Indian note. The museum itself was super interesting. Very interactive and engaging. Also super free!! The museum was set within the house Ghandi spent his last days before he was assassinated.

We did a short walk around New Delhi to see a few more sites, but the noise and smog quickly pushed us to our limits and so concluded the first part of our time in India.

We said our farewells to Victoria and Andrew and set off on our own. New Years Eve was approaching and so we opted for a "holiday from our holiday" by booking a very nice hotel by the airport to pretend we weren't in India for a couple of days, before the next stage of our travels solo in India.

Until then,